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Chain Link Fence Installation Manual
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Layout:

Three-Four-Five Triangulation Method to Squaring Corners:

1. Drive stakes a foot or two away from where you want corner and end posts to be located; this will allow you to drill/ dig holes without obstructions. It may also allow you to 'drop' the string while excavating for holes. Be careful not to bump or move stakes. If you remove the string to excavate holes, take care to restretch the string line back the way it was prior to removing.
2. Stretch masonry guide string tight between these stakes. This string will represent the location of the fence and serve as a guide string as you set posts. Posts will be set in concrete or driven 1/8-1/4" from string line.
3. Intermediate stakes may be required for longer stretches of fence. Be sure to pull string taut as string which sags or moves with the wind will cause posts to be set incorrectly. Keep in mind, the fence can only be as straight as the guide string.
4. Locate gate posts first and mark their location with upside down marking paint. Next measure each stretch of fence. Chain link posts are typically spaced with a a maximum of ten feet apart. For aesthetic reasons, space posts evenly, but do NOT exceed ten feet between posts. If you plan on installing privacy slats or another type of material that will increase wind load, consider using 8' or 6' post spacing.

Upside Down Paint: Click image for additional product information.

Mark fence post locations. Be sure to account for auger diameter and post diameter when marking.

Check hole location prior to filling with concrete mix. The hole should not be centered perfectly under string line; it should be offset slightly so that the post will be centered in the concrete footer. If necessary put post in empty hole and check with a level. The post should be plumb to the string with approx. 1/8-1/4" clearance.

Fill post holes with concrete mix. Do not fill holes completely. This may cause posts to heave prematurely.