| Batter's Blocks - Usage
Recommendations and Installation |
Applications:
- Batter's Boxes
- Catcher's Area
- Pitching Mound
Plateau
Front of Rubber
Stride Path
Landing Area
- Lead Off Paths
- Coaches Boxes
- Bull Pens
- Batting Cages
- Any High Wear Area
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Specifications:
- Construction: Raw unfired pure clay (solid - no holes)
- Size: Approximately 2 1/4" x 4" x 8"
- Weight: 6.5 lbs each
- Quantity: 320 per skid
- Coverage: Approximately 70 square feet at 2 1/4" depth.
Blocks can also be placed on their side to yield to a 4" deep clay base for maximum
wear. Placing the blocks on their side will cover approximately 39 square feet.
*Note: All instructions are based on the blocks laying flat
yielding a 2 1/4" clay base. |
| Approximate Usage: |
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| 4' x 6' Batter's Box |
108 Blocks |
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| 3' x 3' Catchers Area |
45 Blocks |
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| 3' x 5' Mound Plateau |
68 Blocks |
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| 3' x 6' Stride Path |
90 Blocks |
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| 4' x 6' Landing area |
108 Blocks |
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| 1' x 2' Front of Pitching Rubber |
9 Blocks |
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| When applying to the plateau,
stride path and landing area, there will be areas of overlap reducing the total number of
blocks used in reference to the above quantities. To reduce usage only place blocks in actual wear areas. Example: on a 4' x 6'
batters box do not put blocks in the far corners. Only do an approximate 3' x 4' area. |
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Economy Pitcher's Mound
Represents the most economical approach |
Pitcher's Mound
Shows the plateau in front of the rubber
and the landing area |
Complete Pitcher's Mound
Shows the plateau, stride path
and landing area |
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Batter's Box
Represents the most popular method |
Batter's Box Wear Area
Represents an economical approach |
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Cross Section Detail
1/2" - 3/4" depth of existing infield material
2 1/4" thick batter's blocks
level compacted subsurface |
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Instructions:
- Choose the appropriate layout pattern from above or create
your own.
- Mark an outline of the area to be stabilized.
- Excavate the area to a depth of 2 3/4" - 3". This
will allow for the batter's block and the 1/2" - 3/4" of surface materials.
- Accurately level the sub-base with a flat board or the back of
a rake and break up any clumps and remove any rocks. Square the edges with a flat head
shovel and tamp the sub-base evenly.
- Lay blocks side by side so edges are touching as tightly as
possible. Be careful not to let the dirt fall between the blocks themselves, which will
prevent the clay from bonding well.
- Saturate the blocks with water. The water level should be
approximately half way up the sides of the blocks. Allow the water to be absorbed and add
more if needed, to fully mend them together. Do not tamp or apply pressure which will
depress the clay.
- Allow to dry for 24 hours, or less if it is extremely dry and
sunny outside.
- Back fill the area around the perimeter of the blocks and tamp
firmly. Lightly wet the clay block surface and rake your surface material over the blocks
for the finished appearance. Tamp slightly to bind surface material with your clay block
sub-surface.
Repair:
- When wear holes appear, sweep the surface material away from
the clay block subsurface. Clean the clay block as thoroughly as possible (the material
will disrupt the binding process between the old clay and the new clay).
- Use either pre-moistened blocks that were wrapped in wet
towels for a day or two or bagged promound clay.
- Moisten the clay subsurface and slightly scarify.
- Add new clay an inch at a time and tamp firmly to the existing
clay sub-base to regain proper clay base elevation.
- Rake surface material over clay sub-base and tamp firmly.
- Let dry for several hours
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