Shop: Vinyl Post and Rail Fencing
Figure 1
Figure 1 is a simple drawing that shows an example of the type of information you need to start with in order to figure materials for your post and rail fence.
Note that gate sizes may be limited to what is available in the style that you have chosen. Refer to the pricing pages to determine gate size availability.
All of the gates in the Post and Rail sizes can be doubled up to create a double swing gate to increase gate opening sizes.
It is important to figure in advance where gates are to be placed. This will affect the amount of posts and panels on each side of the gate. It is wise, where possible to place gates an even number of sections from one end of a line or the other. That way the section on that side at least does not need to be cut and an extra post might be avoided. Naturally a sidewalk or driveway gate can not be moved, but perhaps the fence line down at the end can be moved in or out instead.
Summarize the details as shown in the darkened rectangle. S1, S2, etc. refers to each line of fence. Notice that the exact measurement on each side of the gate is included. This detail is often overlooked by most novices. It does matter where you place the gate. It will affect the number of posts you need and the type (end, corner or line post).
Figure 2
Corner, end, line and blank posts are distinctly different on the Post and Rail Fence. Each post has pre-routed holes so the rails can slide into the post. A corner therefore has holes on two sides that are adjacent to each other, whereas a line post has holes on two sides opposite each other, and so forth with the other post types.
A blank post has no holes pre-routed and is used for gate latch posts, where no rail need be slid into the post. An example of that use is not illustrated in our drawing.
Using Figure 2 we can figure quantity of posts. The red rectangles illustrate which posts are corner posts. There are 5 of them.
The blue rectangles illustrate end posts. There are 6 of those.
Next we will figure the quantity of line posts. The illustration has numbers in red next to each stretch of fence. These numbers actually are the number of sections per line, including part sections. To calculate these numbers, divide the footage on each line by the post spacing. All of our Post and Rail styles of fence are spaced 8' on centers. So if we divide 'S1' line, which is 75' long by 8, we get 9.3750. Round up to 10. Repeat this procedure for each line.
To determine the amount of line posts needed for each line of fence, subtract 1 from the number calculated. On line 'S1' that would be 9 line posts. Repeat the process and add all of the line posts for each line to arrive at the total line posts needed. In this example the total line posts is 90.
Figure 3
To figure rails, let's start with the longest side, 235'. Since we choose to use 16' rails for maximum strength, divide 235' by 16' rails. As illustrated in red, that is 14.6875. Round to next highest (never round down). We have 15 section 16' long. Multiply that by the number the number of rails to be used according to the style you have chosen; 2 for two rail, 3 for three rail and 4 for four rail. The Crossbuck style is not covered here. It is unique.
In our example, we are building a 3 Rail Fence. So 3 times 15 equals 45 sixteen feet long rails. Granted there is some waste. In fact the last section actually is only 11' long. 5' off each rail is waste, unless we can use it elsewhere on the job.
The fact of the matter is that we can use it here. So we will save them. To calculate the rest of the rails, repeat the process for each side and attempt to use the leftovers from previous sides. Keep a count of all the rails that will be used even short ones because you will need to order two plastic insert rings (retaining rings) for each rail regardless of their length.
It pays to make the sides even multiples of 8' to avoid waste. That is not always possible. Reconfigure your fence to maximize materials. In reality the 16' rails are installed so they alternate their end connections at each post. This is what adds significant strength to the fence. You should start off with 2 eight-foot rails and a mid-sixteen-foot rail. Then alternate the 16' rails accordingly, so seams do not end up all on one common post. This will cause some waste that can not be avoided. You can order 8' rails so you don't have to cut 16'ers in half and drill the connector ring holes.
The vinyl is easy to work with so we commonly order all 16' rails and lots of extra rings. In your case you may not be able to use all the extra material when you are done. Figure it close and order the extra few pieces you may need later. Most items can be shipped economically by UPS except the 16' rails. Make certain your initial order includes all of those.
Figure 4
Confused from the previous step? Let's illustrate the 75' line in our previous example.
Figure 4 shows the elevation of the 75' line. We had figured 10 - 8' sections previously counting the part section on the end.
If you look carefully, you can see that starting on the left hand side we began with a 16' rail on top, an 8' rail in the middle and a 16' rail on the bottom.
We then alternate the 16' rails until we get to the other end and cut the rails to fit. You will recall from the job layout example, that the two ends of this 75' line are corner posts.
Material needed:
There are 16 separate rails of different lengths. The locking rings required are 2 per rail. Leftovers, which can be used elsewhere on this project are: (1) 2' rail and (1) - 5' rail.
Figure 4 (Alternate - Black Post and Rail)
Since the black vinyl rails only come in 8' sections, we need to figure the quantities a little different than the step before. The drawing below shows the elevation of the 75' line. We had figured 10 - 8' sections previously counting the part section on the end.
Figure the 8' rails until we get to the other end and cut the rails to fit. You will recall from the job layout example, that the two ends of this 75' line are corner posts.
Material needed: